Images of Tibet bring to mind mountainous serenity and Buddhist monasteries. It’s capital is one of the most remote, beautiful and controversial destinations in the world…Lhasa. This urban area is viewed by many as the heart of Tibet and has been for centuries. Its most famous citizen, the Dalai Lama, hasn’t set foot there in decades.
Located nearly 12,000 ft up, Lhasa City is amongst the highest on record. High altitudes mean unpredictable weather, but the region gets so much sun the place is sometimes referred to as Sun City. Covering 30,000 sq km, Lhasa has a population of 400,000, the majority of which are Tibetans.
Its turbulent history and long-established culture make it a source of fascination for many. But what exactly happened there, and what is life like in 21st century Lhasa…?
Going way back, Lhasa was originally called Rasa. Apparently a royal hunting preserve, the name translated as “goat’s place”. There are actually various meanings applied here, and to the subsequent name of Lhasa. Firstly however, it’s important to look at how Lhasa – as people know it – came to be.
The old Tibetan Empire, lasting between the 7th – 9th centuries, was founded by its king and conqueror Songtsen Gampo. He’s thought to have ruled from 605 to 649 CE (Common Era) and crucially brought Buddhism to the forefront in what became Lhasa. His Buddhist conversion was through marriage to Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal. She was just one of his wives, but arguably the most influential.
The name “Lhasa” first makes an appearance in 822 CE and means “Place of Gods”. Another name used is the Chinese name Chengguan. Lhasa’s evolution into a spiritual and cultural hub introduced the Dalai Lama onto the world stage. A precious figure in Tibet, the Lama established Lhasa as his Tibetan capital in 1642.
His line dates back into legend, though Songtsen Gampo also has religious significance. Tricycle: The Buddhist Review mentions he “later came to be regarded as an incarnation of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of com-passion.” A “bodhisattva” is someone on the spiritual path. Avalokiteshvara is also believed to reincarnate the Lama, sending him sporadically to Tibet in the form of a chosen one – the current Dalai Lama is the 14th.
Today Buddhism is still the way of life in Lhasa. Buddhist sites like Potala Palace – built on the site which hosted Songtsen Gampo’s original structures – and the Jokhang Temple draw tourists and general attention to the area.
One of the most important and fun cultural events is Fairy’s Day, known as the “Women’s Festival” in modern Tibet. It is celebrated on the 15th day of the 10th month in the Tibetan calendar and commemorates Buddha Aleanterre Brahm. During the celebration, women dress in their most beautiful clothes and go to temples to present traditional ceremonial scarves called “Hada” to their honored goddess and likewise to make a wish.
Elsewhere in Lhasa, people flood the main thoroughfare Barkhor Street around the ancient Jokhang Temple and its square. Women and girls decorate themselves elaborately in traditional garments and jewelry. As well as religious activities, shopping and having magnificent food are also part of the festivities. Believers from all over Tibet gather i Lhasa during this festival to burn aromatic plants and pray at Jokhang temple.
The status of Tibet was changed from an independent country into part of China – the Tibet Autonomous Region, in 1965. The Dalai Lama remains on the outside to this day, spending most of his time in India but making frequent appearances in many countries around the world.
Life inside the monasteries of Lhasa are a mix of the old and new. Monks live a simple and regular monastic life. Getting up at 8:30 a.m., they chant after breakfast till noon. Chanting and praying continue till 4 p.m. after a one-hour break for lunch. After dinner, they rest for an hour and continue chanting and praying till 11:30 p.m.
However there are also days for practicing Tibetan Buddhists where playing sports, creating art and even working on the computer are part of life, especially for those at the Tibet Buddhism University. Growing tourism, which reached a record $8 billion in 2019, much of it coming from mainland China, has also sparked a modicum of modernity to the city and its inhabitants.
International relations and tourism aside, modern society’s main exposure to Lhasa has been through movies. 1997’s Seven Years In Tibet, directed by Jean-Jacques Annaud and starring Brad Pitt, depicted the true life adventures of Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer. He’d entered Lhasa and taught the Dalai Lama as a young boy. The same year Martin Scorsese made Kundun, a biopic of the 14th Lama and his experiences growing up. Unlike the more Western-friendly Harrer picture, Kundun failed at the box office.
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Hollywood dramas and images are one thing, the future of Tibet is quite another. Its landscape and heritage are beautiful, but have suffered the scars of generations. In the end this most reflective and peaceful parts of the world lives under a continuous shadow.